If using a conventional stooge with the pin going through the hole in the sheet part adjacent to the motor stick be sure that the motor stick is firmly glued to the part with the stooging hole. I had a motor stick rip out of a Cutlass while stretch winding at a contest and tear up the fuselage. I was able to tack the model back together with CA and Scotch Tape and get times on the board, but the performance was sub standard. Please, check existing models.

BEAUFIGHTER Errata - There are a couple of errors in the Beaufighter documentation. The width of the rudder outline has been increased to accommodate attaching a small, paper rudder tab to tighten the turning circle. Some modelers prefer it to a drag tab on the wing and some use both. The correct width of the part will be shown on the next printing of the plans. Also, the flying instructions mention the use of a drag tab and refer to the sketch on the plan. There is no sketch of the drag tab on the plan. This will also be corrected on the next printing. When I have used a drag tab on this model it has been 3/4 inch long by 3/8 inch high attached to the trailing edge just inboard of the curve of the wing tip on the side of the desired turn.

BOSTILLATION Errata - If you are not building with C/A or a quick-drying, super tacky white glue use the third alignment tool at the bottom of the fuselage to hold the center of the fuselage in alignment while your glue dries. This option will be shown in the next printing of the plans and the instruction booklet.

The pre-printed tissue trim is not dope proof. I have been building with Krylon fixative for so long I did not check. They should be applied with glue stick. You cannot brush dope over them, however you can airbrush or simply use Krylon, or another acrylic artists fixative. Fixatives are compatible with nitrate dope. Working on a correction for this one.


The center of gravity mark was left off the plan. The C.G. is half way between the leading edge and spar on the lower wing.


If the upper wing is detachable, you can make fine adjustments to the balance between power and glide, if needed, by shimming the leading edge of the upper wing to raise the incidence. Try 1/32" increments and you can go as much as 3/32". DO NOT lower the incidence of the upper wing by shimming the trailing edge or change the incidence of the lower wing. Nasty stalls will result.